| |
Community
Magazines
Book Clubs
Book Stores
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
| Artists Network
|
| You are not authorized to post a reply.
|
|
| Author |
Messages |
|
teenyblue79
Posts:140
 |
| 09/13/2009 11:59 AM |
 Alert
|
New colored pencil sketch. 9x12 on Strathmore black art paper. Please tell me what you think...
Nina |
|
Perfection is attained by slow degrees;
she requires the hand of time-Voltaire |
|
broknprism
Posts:4
|
| 09/13/2009 8:21 PM |
Alert
|
| I like to work on dark paper too. It really makes the subject feel luminous. Have you tried undercoating...? It helps give depth to the finished drawing. You probably already know this. ; )
I work on gray paper because I like the finished look -- a dark background - but I spend the entire drawing time 'overcoming' the color gray under my subject. My first task then is to fully undercoat a subject with a white pencil so the colored layers, when they go down, go down on a 'primer' of white. In the undercoat, I use more white on light areas, and less in areas I know will be shaded in the finished piece.
I like the shadow on the rolled edge of the lily on the lily on the left.
|
|
|
|
broknprism
Posts:4
|
| 09/13/2009 8:57 PM |
Alert
|
| Another thing, Nina. I like the stem of the right lily. It looks like you really put a lot of pigment down there -- you've begun to move the colors around in the built-up area like they were paint. The thing about textured papers is that the drawing tends to look textured too, and this isn't always desirable. Finally, keep in mind how many different tonal variations you will have on a surface that isn't flat: every angle at which the light hits those lilies means a slightly different tone. It's a curved surface. There are ultra light lights, light lights, lights, low lights, ultra low lights, mediums, medium darks, darks, etc. You give dimension to the finished flowers by reproducing those tonal variations. Try an undercoat, and then use a lot of pencil in many thin layers that will build up to a sumptuous texture as smooth as the lily itself is. |
|
|
|
teenyblue79
Posts:140
|
| 09/13/2009 10:11 PM |
Alert
|
Thank you. broknprism , for all the wonderful input. I underlayered the light areas with white but not the rest. I will give your suggestions a try. I will admit, I struggled with some of the tonal variations. There were a lot of them especially on the right flower. Sometimes when i lay down many thin layers, at a point, It seems color is coming off instead of going on. I don't know why. I used gray undercoating on the darker areas. It was a smooth paper surface. Thanks again for your advice- I will persevere...Good luck with your art..
Nina |
|
Perfection is attained by slow degrees;
she requires the hand of time-Voltaire |
|
broknprism
Posts:4
|
| 09/14/2009 4:46 PM |
Alert
|
| Hi Nina
I gave a lot of advice, but didn't ask important questions. If you find that pencil is coming off (flakign off?) can I ask what kidn of pencils you use? I use Prismacolor pencils, which I build up in many layers. Eventually I reach teh point where the paper just won't take any more, but it takes a long time to get there. After a while, the layers act like paint, and I mix right on the paper.
Here's something I'm working on now. I start with a light undercoat, then build up to darker and darker colors (for areas I know will remain dark, I just undercoat with less white, but I still put white underneath to hide the severe gray). If I were going to shade a yellow lily, I might undercoat with light blue or purple, but probably not not gray. I wouldn't even shade white with gray -- a light violet will give the shadow more... life.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l278/broknprism/img057.jpg
|
|
|
|
teenyblue79
Posts:140
|
| 09/15/2009 12:01 AM |
Alert
|
I reworked the picture - I shaded with dark gold this time. I really concentrated on tonal variations and just layered white and color, until I couldn't put on anymore. Part of it was I just didn't take it far enough the first time. Learned my lesson. I use Prismacolor, Liquitex, Lyra and a couple other brands mixed in . The problem was partially I was tired and didn't persist long enough. this one , imo, has way more life and is accurate more to the photo i was working from. Thanks so much for your advice...Much appreciated. I will check out the address you posted... And i will never shade with gray again,,Lol...Any other opinions appreciated...
Nina |
|
Perfection is attained by slow degrees;
she requires the hand of time-Voltaire |
|
broknprism
Posts:4
|
| 09/17/2009 4:06 PM |
Alert
|
| Never say never. : ) There are probably times to shade with gray, but as I'm learnign over on Wet canvas, you would probably shade yellow with... blue or blue green.
If you're interested, the experts there are helping me with a portrait of Lincoln, and a drawing of my daughter (pg 2). I got a lot of good advice! They nailed me right away as a hobbyist, which I am, so I trust their judgment. : )
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8144759#post8144759
|
|
|
|
teenyblue79
Posts:140
|
| 09/24/2009 12:21 PM |
Alert
|
Thanks broknprism. I feel I'm making up for years of learning now that I'm retired and have the time to
persue my art full time. I will try to look at your art, but I find WetCanvas a bit intimidating. i tried to join
last week with this screen name as I noticed other artists use same name on both sites but I could not get the website to accept my submission. So I gave up. Not the most computer saavy person around so i don't like a lot of complicated stuff. |
|
Perfection is attained by slow degrees;
she requires the hand of time-Voltaire |
|
|
| You are not authorized to post a reply. |
|
|
|
ActiveForums 3.6
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|